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Blank Canvas Cardi

This pattern is for a basic double crochet baby/toddler sized crochet cardi (American terms). I like to think of it as a blank canvas for you to ‘paint’ with your own choice of colours, textures, embellishments, edgings, ribbing, buttons, zipper or whatever takes your fancy!

For my first one, pictured here, I used a cotton/linen mix DK weight yarn and added ruffles, crab stitch and some surface slip stitching for a girly, summery look. Swap ruffles for ribbing and surface crochet for stripes, and you will get a distinctly boyish cardigan. Or leave as is for a classic, gender neutral version. I’d love to see how you choose to personalise it – Please share your cardigans on Ravelry!

Sizes are obviously guides only, all kids are different. If you can, try on the yoke before continuing to the body section. If trying on isn’t possible, use the size guidelines below. When laying the yoke down, folded at the shoulders, fronts meeting in the middle, the measurement across the lower edge (what will be across the chest) should be about half of the circumference measurements below. Hopefully my illustration explains it:

2016-03-30 20.53.54.jpg
Finished yoke size 12M

YOKE illustr for cardi

Size Guidelines

Chest circumference of finished cardi:
3 months: 18 in/ 46 cm
6 months: 19 in/ 48 cm
9 months: 20 in / 51 cm
12 months: 22 in/ 56 cm
18 months: 24 in/ 61 cm
2 years: 26 in/ 66 cm
4 years: 28 in/ 71 cm
6 years: 30 in/ 76 cm

Materials

  • DK yarn. I used Drops Belle. You can use thicker or thinner yarn if you like – just make the yoke large enough to match the chest circumference measurements above (or try on). When the yoke is the right size, continue to the body section. If you do use different weight yarn, gauge and row count is irrelevant.
  • 4.5mm hook – or hook to meet gauge
  • Buttons, zip or whichever closure you prefer

Gauge

15 dcs x 9 rows= 10 cm / 4 inches

Yoke

Chain 60.

N.B. In row 1, work your sts into the nub at the back of the chains. This will make it easier to work the collar/neck row(s) at the end.

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (first 2 dc made), dc in next 8 chs, 3dc in next ch, dc in next 9 chs, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next 18 chs, 3dc in next ch, dc in next 9 chs, 3dc in next ch, dc in last 9 chs, turn. (66 dcs)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 9 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 20 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in last 10 sts, turn. (74 dcs)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 10 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 22 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in last 11 sts, turn. (82 dcs)

Continue like this, working 1 dc into each st, and 3 dcs into the centre st in each of the 4 corners, until the yoke is the required size.

Row 4: (90 dcs)
Row 5: (98 dcs)
Row 6: (106 dcs) Stop here for 3M & continue to BODY
Row 7: (114 dcs)
Row 8: (122 dcs) Stop here for 6M & continue to BODY
Row 9: (130 dcs)
Row 10: (138 dcs) Stop here for 12M & continue to BODY
Row 11: (146 dcs)
Row 12: (154 dcs)
Row 13: (162 dcs) Stop here for 18M & continue to BODY

Body

2016-04-02 20.26.45
Yoke and most of body done

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st across to, and including, the centre dc in the first corner, skip all sts up to the centre dc in the next corner (first sleeve opening made), dc in this st and in every st up to, and including, the centre dc in the third corner, skip all sts up to the centre dc in the last corner (second sleeve opening made), dc in this st and in every st to end, turn. (3M: 64 dcs; 6M: 72 dcs; 12M: 80 dcs; 18M: 92 dcs)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, turn.

Repeat row 2 until required length. Compare with a cardigan that fits the child or try on.

Sleeves

2016-04-06 21.54.41
Underarm area. Here, I’ve worked 2 rounds of the sleeve.

Round 1: Join yarn to centre of underarm, ch 3 (counts as first dc), and work dcs evenly around the arm hole: 1 dc in ea dc around + about 5 dcs into the underarm area (inc. the beginning ch-3). Join to beginning ch-3, turn.

Exact stitch count doesn’t matter too much here, just make sure both sleeves have the same number of sts. You don’t have to turn after each round of the sleeves, but doing so will give you the same fabric texture in the sleeves as in the yoke and body.

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, join to beginning ch-3, turn.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2dctog, dc in all sts to last 2, 2dctog, join to beginning ch-3, turn.

Repeat round 2 & 3 until sleeve is required length. Try on or compare with a cardi that fits the child.

Neck Opening

You may find that the neck opening is too wide, especially for the smaller sizes.

If you need to make the neck opening smaller:

Row 1: Join yarn to neckline at top corner of right front, ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st of neckline until the first corner, (where there’s 3 dcs worked into the same st), *work 3dctog into the st before, into the corner st and into the st after the corner st, dc in each st to the next corner, repeat from * to end of neckline at top corner of left front.
Row 2: Repeat row 1 if required.

If you just need the neckline neatened up a bit:

Join yarn to neckline at top corner of right front, ch1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in each st around neckline.

Button band with holes

Girls: right, boys: left

Row 1: Join yarn to bottom corner of cardi, ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) and work 2 sc around the post of each dc all the way up, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in ea sc all the way down, turn. Now, with stitch markers or yarn scraps, mark where you want your button holes along the button band. Each button hole will be 2 sts. Space them out evenly.
Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in ea st until you get to where you want your first button hole, *ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in ea st until you get to the next button hole, repeat from * until the end, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in ea st, work 2 sc into each ch-2 space all the way down.

Button band with buttons

Girls: left, boys: right

Same as other button band (4 rows of sc along the edge), just omit the button holes. Sew buttons.

Optional Extras

2016-04-03 17.47.58Ruffles along bottom hem & sleeve edges

Row 1: Sc in each stitch, turn
Row 2: Work 3 dcs into each st, turn
Row 3: Working into front loops only, sc in each dc.

Crab Stitch/ Reverse Single Crochet

In addition to the ruffles, I chose to work crab stitch, or reverse sc, around the neckline and down the fronts for a more finished look. To do this, start in the bottom corner of the left front and work backwards up the left button band, around the neckline and down the right button band. I find that my crab stitch looks neater if I go down a hook size or two. Here, I opted for a 3.5mm. Tamara Kelly has a great tutorial on how to crochet the crab stitch over on Moogly.

Surface Slip Stitches

2016-04-12 22.36.33.jpgThis is a great way to add interest to plain crochet fabric. I free handed the little heart shape on this cardi. Start with a slip knot, and always hold the yarn at the back of your work. Insert your hook into the fabric from front to back where you want your stitches to start, get the slip knot on your hook and pull it through your work, from the back to the front, insert hook into the next place where you want your stitches to go, yarn over at the back of the fabric, pull through your work and through the loop on your hook to complete the slip stitch. There’s a great tutorial on Dedri Uy’s blog here.

Recent Comments

4 Comments

  1. Kim Brennan Kim Brennan

    I have tried to start this pattern twice but am immediately having a problem with the corners (3dc in next stitch) not matching up. Do you have any suggestions on what I might be doing wrong, or is there an error in the written pattern?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thank you,

    Kim B.

    • hookedbyanna hookedbyanna

      Hmm, so do you end up with the wrong number of stitches in-between each corner or how do you mean not matching up?

    • Kim Kim

      In Row 2, I start with chain 3 then 9 dc stitches. When I go to do the following “3 dc in next stitch” I am at the top of the FIRST stitch of the “3 dc” in the row below but I believe I need to be in the middle stitch of the “3 dc” in the row below. I am thinking that the paternal should say to do 10 dc instead of 9 dc? Shouldn’t the 3dc fan always be centered on the one below it?

    • hookedbyanna hookedbyanna

      Yes, the 3dc ‘fan’ should always land in the centre stitch of the fan below. I’ve taken som photos for you, hopefully they’ll help! Will email them to you now…

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