[Svensk version här!] Phew! It took me a while to work out this pattern in several sizes. I improvised the sweater last summer, inspired by the lovely variegated yarn Nordlys, but I dreaded trying to write down a pattern for it. I am so happy I finally did! The fine yarn means it takes some time to finish, but it is very satisfying watching the colours shift as you work the waves of the sweater! I hope you like the pattern and the sweater. Do let me know if anything is unclear or you get stuck! This pattern is free – in return I would love to see your sweaters on Ravelry and Instagram – please tag me so I can see!

MATERIALS

• 3.5mm hook (or whatever hook you need to meet gauge) plus a hook one size smaller for the ribbing sections
• Sock yarn/ fingering weight yarn in two colours: one solid and one variegated/gradient. I used Nordlys from Norwegian brand Viking garn in shades 900 (white) and 968 (pink/purple). One skein (350 m/383 yards) of each is enough for all sizes up to size 9 months. The bigger sizes (12m+) require two skeins of the solid colour and one skein of the gradient.
• Zipper – but wait until the sweater is finished before buying one – so you know exactly how long the front opening is. A tip is to use a zipper that is a tiny bit shorter than the opening, so it doesn’t poke the child in the neck when zipped up all the way. You can of course use buttons as well, but the pattern does not include button bands.

GAUGE

21 dc x 12 rows = 10×10 cm /4×4 inches. You need to get the right gauge for the sizing to work out.

YOKE

With the solid coloured yarn, chain 60.

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook (first 2 dcs made), dc in next 7 chs, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next 9 chs, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next 18 chs, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next 9 ch, 3 dc in next ch, dc in final 9 chs, turn. (66 dc)

Row 2: 3ch (counts as first dc), dc in next 9 sts, 3 dcs in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 20 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in final 10 sts, turn. (74 sts)

Row 3: 3ch (counts as first dc), dc in next 10 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 22 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in final 11 sts, turn. (82 sts)

Continue like this, working one dc in each st, and 3 dcs in the middle dc in each corner. This way, you will increase each row by 8 sts.

In the row indicated below for your size (e.g. row 7 for size 3M) close it with a slip stitch in the beginning ch-3, do not turn.

Row 4: (90 sts)
Row 5: (98 sts)
Row 6: (106 sts)
Row 7: (114 sts) – close this row for size 3M
Row 8: (122 sts)
Row 9: (130 sts) – close this row for size 6M
Row 10: (138 sts)
Row 11: (146 sts) – close this row for size 9M
Row 12: (154 sts)
Row 13: (162 sts) – close this row for size 12M
Row 14: (170 sts)
Row 15: (178 sts) – close this row for size 18M
Row 16: (186 sts)
Row 17: (194 sts) – close this row for size 2Y
Row 18: (202 sts)

Close row 7-9-11-13-15-17 with a slst in the first dc (i.e. the beginning ch-3), do not turn.

Now, we work a final round of dcs around the yoke, with the solid colour yarn, in the same direction as the previous row, without turning:

Round 8/10/12/14/16/18, depending on size: (without turning) ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st, and work 3 dcs in the centre st in each corner, close the round with a slst in the first st. Fasten off.

BODY

Round 1 (divide for sleeves): with the solid colour yarn and with RS facing you, start in the centre dc of the yoke’s back left corner (this will be under the left arm), work a standing sc (or ch 1 and sc) into this st, sc in each st across the back up to and including the centre dc of the next corner, ch 7 (loosely!), skip all sts until the next corner, sc in the centre dc of the next corner, sc in each st across the chest up to and including the centre dc of the next corner, ch 7, skip all sts up to the next corner, close the round with a slst in the first sc. (You should have 86-94-102-110-118-126 sts around the chest, out of which 14 chs under the arms.)

Round 2 (making sure the no. of sts is divisible by 7): ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in the first st, sc in each st across the back whilst increasing by 2-2-1-1-0-3 sc evenly distributed across the back, sc in each st under the right arm, sc in each st across the chest whilst increasing by 3-2-2-1-1-4 sc evenly distributed across the chest, sc in each st under the left arm, close with a slst in the first sc – and NOW you change to the gradient/variegated yarn – hurrah!!

Exactly where you increase in round 2 doesn’t matter, the important thing is that you end up with the right number of sts around: (91-98-105-112-119-132)

THE WAVY PART

Finally time to start working the waves in the gradient yarn! You don’t have to fasten off in-between the rounds, just leave the yarn hanging on the WS and make sure not to pull on the yarn when changing colours.

If you’re paying attention, you’ll soon realise that the wavy pattern repeat shifts one st in the direction of your work for each round of gradient waves. This is intentional; it counteracts the slant in the opposite direction that will otherwise appear when working in the round without turning.

Round 3: with the gradient yarn, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next 2 sts, dc in next st, hdc in next st. Repeat this sequence (sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc) around and close the round with slst in first sc – change back to the solid coloured yarn as you work the slst. (You should have 13-14-15-16-17-19 pattern repeats/waves around the body of the sweater.)

Round 4: with the solid coloured yarn, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in the solid coloured sc from round 2 (directly below the first sc from the previous round), sc in the next 6 sts, sc in the solid coloured sc from round 2 (directly below the gradient sc from the previous round), continue like this around, close with a slst in the first sc. Don’t change colours.

Round 5: with solid coloured yarn, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st around, close with a slst in the first sc – change to the gradient yarn when you YO and pull through the last slst.

Round 6: with the gradient yarn, ch 3 (counts as first tr), tr, dc, hdc, sc, hdc, dc, *tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc, hdc, dc, repeat from * around, close the round with a slst in the 2nd tr (NOT in the beginning ch3) – change colour as you YO and pull through the slst.

Round 7: with solid coloured yarn, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in the 2nd tr of previous round, sc in next 2 sts (=dc, hdc), sc in the solid coloured sc from round 5, directly below the next st, sc in the next 6 sts, sc in the solid coloured sc from round 5, directly below the next st, continue like this around. N.B. work the final sc into the slst with which you closed the previous round or into the top of the beg. ch-3 of the previous round, close with slst in the first sc. Don’t change colour. (Check that each wave is still 7 sts.)

Round 8: same as round 5

Repeat rounds 3-8 until you’ve crocheted 11-12-12-12-13-14 wavy (gradient) rounds, or until you think the sweater is long enough, minus 2-3 cm (about one inch) ribbing.

Skip the final solid coloured sc-round after your last wave (this is either a round 5 or 8). Instead, we’ll work a special solid coloured round to even out the waves and gather the sweater a little by working some decreases, like this:

Evening-out Round: with the solid coloured yarn, work the following sequence of sts so that the dcs end up in the valleys and the scs on the peaks of the waves: [2dctog, hdc, sc in next 3 sts, hdc]. Depending on which size you are making, you will either start this round with 2dctog (=ch2+dc in next st) in a valley or with ch+2 sc on a peak. Close the round with a slst in the first st. (Try to end this round with an even number of sts – if you have an odd number now, increase or decrease by one in the next round.)

RIBBING

Optional: use a smaller hook for tighter ribbing.

Round 1: With solid coloured yarn, ch 3 (counts as first st), dc in next st and in each st around, close with slst in the first st. (Check that you have an even number of sts, otherwise increase/decrease one st.)

Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, fpdc in next st, *sc in next st, fpdc in next st, repeat from * around, close with a slst in the first sc.

Work round 2 a total of 4-4-4-6-6-6 times, or until you think the ribbing is long/wide enough. Fasten off.

SLEEVES

Same as with the body, we start by making sure the number of sts around the armhole/sleeve is divisible by 7:

Round 1 (increase to make the no. of sts divisible by 7): with solid coloured yarn, starting in the middle under the arm, work a standing sc (or a ch+sc), sc in next st and in each st around, whilst increasing by 3-6-2-5-1-4 sts evenly distributed around the sleeve, close with a slst in the first sc, change to gradient yarn as you pull through the slst. (35-42-42-49-49-56 sts)

Round 2: with the gradient yarn, ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next 2 sts, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st. Repeat the sequence (sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc) around, close with a slst in the first sc, change to the solid coloured yarn. (5-6-6-7-7-8 waves around the sleeve)

Round 3: with the solid coloured yarn, ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the solid coloured sc from round 1 directly below the first sc from round 2, sc in next 6 sts, sc in the solid coloured sc from round 1 directly below the gradient sc from previous round, continue like this around, close with a slst in the first sc, don’t change colours.

Round 4: with solid coloured yarn, ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st around, close with a slst in the first sc, change colours.

Round 5: with the gradient yarn, ch3 (counts as the first tr), tr, dc, hdc, sc, hdc, dc, *tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc, hdc, dc, repeat from * around, close with a slst in the 2nd tr (not in the beginning ch-3) – change yarn as you pull through the slst.

Round 6: with solid coloured yarn, ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in 2nd tr from previous round, sc in next 2 sts (=dc, hdc), sc in the solid coloured sc from round 4 directly below next sc, sc in next 6 sts, sc in the solid coloured sc from round 4 directly below next sc, continue like this around. N.B. work the last sc into the slst with which you closed the previous round, or into the top of the beg. ch-3 from round 5, close with a slst in the first sc, don’t change colours. (Check that each wave is still 7 sts.)

Round 7: same as round 4

Repeat rounds 2-7 until you have 6-7-9-9-10-11 wavy rounds in the sleeve, or until you think it is long enough, minus ribbing.

Just like for the body, skip the final solid coloured round of scs (either a round 4 or 7 depending on size). Instead, work a solid coloured round to even out the waves and gather the sleeves like this:

Evening-out Round: with the solid coloured yarn, work the following sequence of sts so that the dcs end up in the valleys and the scs on the peaks of the waves: [2dctog, hdc, sc in next 3 sts, hdc]. Depending on which size you are making, you will either start this round with 2dctog (=ch2+dc in next st) in a valley or with ch+2 sc on a peak. Close the round with a slst in the first st. (Try to end this round with an even number of sts – if you have an odd number now, increase or decrease by one in the next round.)

Repeat the above for the other sleeve.

SLEEVE RIBBING

Optional: use a smaller hook for tighter ribbing.

Round 1: with solid coloured yarn, ch 3 (counts as first st), dc in next st and in each st around, close with slst in the first st. (Check that you have an even number of sts, otherwise increase/decrease one st.)

Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, fpdc in next st, *sc in next st, fpdc in next st, repeat from * around, close with a slst in the first sc.

Work round 2 a total of 4-4-4-6-6-6 times, or until you think the ribbing is long/wide enough. Fasten off.

COLLAR

N.B. If the neck opening seems too big, you can make it smaller before starting with the collar:

OPTIONAL: DECREASE THE NECK OPENING

Neck Decrease Row: with solid coloured yarn, attach yarn to top right corner of the yoke/neck opening, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc, or make a standing dc), dc in each st to the first corner, * work 3dctog over the 3 sts in the corner, dc in each st to the next corner, repeat from * until the end of the row at the top left corner of the neck opening.

Repeat this row if necessary. Make sure the number of sts around the neck opening is even -otherwise increase/decrease by one st.

Row 1: with solid coloured yarn, attach yarn to top right corner of neck opening, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc, or make a standing dc), dc in each st around the neck opening to the top left corner, turn. (58 sts – unless you have worked one or more neck decrease rows)

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as first st), fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st, and so on until end, turn.

Repeat row 2 until you are happy with the size of the collar.

Neaten up the front opening: finish off by working scs down the front opening, where the zipper will go: start in the top left corner of the collar and work 2 sc into the side of each dc down the front, and back up again, finishing at the top right corner of the collar.

Fasten off, work away the ends, sew your zipper (or use buttons if you prefer), block – tah-daah!